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Hi Dave, I agree!! I have an Android phone and REALLY wish someone would write SmartSDR for Android. I am not holding my breath, however...
Yes, the TM is just like SmartControl, and even works on V2 radios. I just discovered how to bind to an already connected GUI client (e.g. SmartSDR) so now RF Power is correctly reflected on the TM without having to transmit. Gotta love this forum!!
Now I just need to figure out how to connect over the WAN. I tried using SoftEther VPN with the TM bridged from the ethernet port, but no luck yet. Might be a router config issue, might be a SoftEther issue. It is definitely my lack of network experience. Maybe I will pick your brain once the contest is over...0
OK, no problem.
Good luck in the contest, will be on the bands for parts of it.
Or a group of linux developers.0
Started to collect parts. A bit hard from overseas, as shipping cost tend to be a killer. But found the Teensy locally and display+touch controller in UK.
Will post more when I get going, but it will take some time :)0
Sounds good Lasse! I will be interested to see your progress.1
I’m getting ready to start building the TeensyMaestro. I’m going to use a 3D printed faceplate, at least while building and testing, which is a copy of Len’s design which I’ve put into Fusion 360. There are also supports and a baseplate to mount components and modules. If the faceplate looks good enough, clear text, etc. I’ll use it in the final assembly instead of the aluminum one.
I’m working a summer job here in Bar Harbor to help fund my technology additions so progress will likely be slow, but I’ll post photos as I build it if there is interest. First step over the next few days will be 3D printing the parts shown below in a screen capture and then test fit the components. The open framework will make it easier to do the wiring and when finished should be able to slide into the cabinet.
Wow, very cool Stan! I would be very interested to see your project as you move along with it. I really like your 3-D printed approach!
Make sure that you have enough room to the left of the display for the encoders. I cut that a little too close on mine and had to file the holes out just slightly to gain clearance.
Since it sounds like you are on a budget, you might want to start with the Teensy 4.1 & ethernet connector and the display. With just these components you will be able to see it work.
Next, start wiring in the "A" side encoders, the CW Speed/Menu encoder and four front-panel pushbuttons. That will give you control of the menu system and the most used (at least for me...) controls for slice A.
The VFO controls are around $20 each, and can easily be left for last along with the "B" side controls.
Best of luck with your project and don't hesitate to post questions and progress here.0
If you use the front panel layout that is in the github repository, you should be fine - it has sufficient room on the left-hand side of the display for the encoders (but not much to spare!).
There are two layouts on GitHub - one in Word that has all the labels and the other in .fpd format which is the one Dave created and is referencing above. The .fpd file has the accurate placement of all the holes.
To look at the .fpd file, download the Front Panel Design software:
Front Panel Express Front Panel Designer (frontpanelexpress.com)
Sorry for the confusion. I really need to spend time with the Word doc to get it aligned with Dave's panel.0
Thanks for your comments,, Len and David. I like that progression. That’s what I’ll do. I have all of the parts already, so the problem isn’t budget, it’s time.
I’ve downloaded all of the files from GitHub and I did use the Front Panel Express layout to print a full sized PDF. Then I used measurements from the print to do the design in Fusion 360.
If the 3D printed panel works, I’ll make the STL file available for none interested. It’s only fair since the design in yours.
Sounds great Stan. If you like, I would be happy to post your STL file on GitHub with the rest of the project files when you are ready.0
Great, that works for me, Len. Once the faceplate is printed and parts mounted, I’ll post a photo showing text quality and parts clearances.
So, I’ve 3D printed the faceplate, baseplate, and supports.
There are a few problems. First, the text, particularly the small lettering is a mess and should be larger. Also, all of the text should be raised instead of recessed - bad choice on my part. I also tried a process with the 3D printer called ironing where it tries to smooth out all topmost faces. This was my first try with this process and at best the settings need to be tweaked. It’s causing the vertical lines so maybe maybe it’s putting out too much plastic during this step. Overall I think it’s a good first step and this piece is more than good enough to test component placement which is the next step. I’ll test that using just a small sample.
You can see that the faceplate is not rigidly attached. That’s on purpose. As I’m building and testing, I want to have the ability to remove the faceplate, invert it, and lay it out in front of the baseplate, as shown below.
In this position, it will be easy to wire between components on the faceplate and those on the baseplate. When the wiring is finished and everything tested, the baseplate will be mounted on the bottom of the chassis and the faceplate on top.
After checking for component clearance, I’ll wire up the display, Teensy, and other components needed to verify communications with the 6400. Suggestions or ideas are always appreciated.
The front panel looks great! The only three places where clearance is a possible issue are:
- The AGC-T B control bumping up against the side of the box
- The AGT-T A control too close to the touch screen
- The Hi/Width A control too close to the touch screen
Hopefully you're controls will be snug but all fit. You may have to rotate the encoders a bit to get the parts to all fit in place.
Keep posting photos, please!1
I’ve already moved the four controls next to the display out a little (~0.125”) from where they were on the Front Panel Express design and I think VOL A and AGC-T B may need to be moved. I’m planning to spend some time on the project early next week.
Wow, that looks great Stan! I can't wait to see a working display in there.
If the 3D printing of the text doesn't work out, you can always go the laminated paper route. Or you can sandwich a printed sheet under some clear ABS sheet like I did.0
Thanks for the suggestion, Len. I’m going to test print a small section with raised text. If the small text looks ok, I’ll spray paint it, and then use a sponge to put a contrasting color on the tops of the letters. But the small text is still iffy in my opinion.
Good idea. Well, you can always move the controls around a bit to give you more room, then use a bigger font. I like the spray paint idea - I think it will be very good looking. You can even sponge on different colors to separate the functions.0
parts are slowly dropping in, and hopefully I can start building within a week or so. Have been browsing through the code trying to learn a bit :)
One feature that I use a lot is the "Split", but cannot see this in the TeensyMaestro code. I doubt I am capable of altering the code to implement this, at least for now, so take it as a suggestion. Looking forward to start building!
Hi Lasse, the source code for the TeensyMaestro is not available yet.
To operate split, you have a couple of choices. You can just click split on SmartSDR and the TM will show it properly. You can also use the TM to open a second slice, then click the TX on the B slice on the TM and you will be in split.
I am glad to hear that the parts are arriving! You will have an operational unit before you know it.0
I’ve checked parts clearance and overall it’s pretty good. Labels for the RIT/XIT controls need to be moved a bit and I’m still working on some ideas for better looking text on the 3D printed panel. For anyone who thought maybe some of the lettering is slightly skewed, you’re right. Somehow that happened in Fusion 360 and it’s been corrected.
Clearance inside the case is fine too. The encoder in the top corners would fit - barely - without turning them but this gives them just a bit more room.
Next I’m going to layout the components - breadboard, Teensy, multiplexer, ethernet kit, etc. - on the baseplate and determine which holes at the bottom of the cabinet I’ll use to hold the plate in place. Then finally I’ll start wiring. This is a busy week here, so that probably won’t happen until early next week.
By the way, I love the feel of the optical encoder with the heavy knob - vey smooth!
73, Stan, K3PW0
Wow, that looks fantastic Stan! I suggest placing the little protoboard (or whatever you use to hold the Teensy board) in the back window of the box to give you access to the SD card. I don't change the card often, but I do tend to change the keyer memories out in the field where it is the least convenient to open the box.
I did not use any existing holes or supports for the proto board. I just drilled the bottom of the case for 4-40 hardware and used countersunk screws. Be careful that the nuts do not short anything on the board. A good choice is to use nylon hardware, I was out, so I used brass hardware and put a nylon washer between the nut and the board. I did not use a spacer from the bottom of the case to the protoboard to give maximum room to grab the SD card and to sneak my pinky in to hit the programming button. A better choice is to bring the programming button out to the back panel.
One thing you can test before you do any wiring (except the couple components on the Ethernet jack board) is to load the firmware (detailed procedure in the user manual), plug it in to your network and power it up. If it is working, you will see a little black box pop up in the lower right hand corner of your computer screen indicating that it found your Flex and connected to it.0
Thanks for the suggestions, Len. Very helpful!0
TeensyMaestro version 1.016 is now available on GitHub.
Release TeensyMaestro V1.016 · KD0RC/Teensy-Maestro-for-Flex-6000-radios (github.com)
***************************** V 1.016 ***************************
Fixed bug where Set contest serial number corrupts the menu when sending a serial number ($N)
Fixed bug where Clear contest serial number to 1 does not update the Set contest serial number menu
Added Mode Menu to allow changing mode for active slice
Added code to bind with first GUI client found to allow RF Power to come back to TeensyMaestro
Added code to automatically connect as a GUI Client (standalone mode) if no GUI Client is found
Added Client Station and Client S/W to splash screen
Reformatted splash screen slightly to make it more readable
Changing RF Power will now reset the screen saver.
Added Transmit Menu to allow setting RF Power and Mic Gain
Updated the User Manual to reflect program changes and added a section about remote operation using SoftEther VPN
So I know a couple more Teensy Maestros are in the works, Does anyone have any pics or progress reports to share? Is anyone else building one?0
Seems my build will take longer :( Was just informed that the package from Leo Bodnar was returned by customs due to inot beeing detailed enough declaration. I am stumped... I am pretty confident I'm not their first Swedish customer this year. Not too happy right now.0
Wow... That is unfortunate. Have you been able to get the Teensy and display wired up yet? If so, you can load the .hex file and verify communication with the radio. It is advantageous to have that done first so that you can verify proper operation of the encoders as you wire them in.
I hope your parts don't take too much longer.0
Yes, I do have some parts, Teensy+mag jack, display and and some hi-res encoders for the VFO, Found some surplus encoders in a box that may do OK for testing, and even found a bunch of port expanders so should keep me busy.
I'll start with a "proto-board" done with all the essential parts.
Sounds good Lasse! Yes, the encoders will probably work and will give you an idea of how the finished product will behave. It sounds like you have enough parts to get at least some functionality. Have fun with your project!1
It's been a busy couple couple of weeks but I have worked through some 3D printing issues and am ready to start some actual construction. Early next week I'll figure out a layout for mounting circuit boards/modules on the baseplate and then I'll program the Teensy and wire up the display. Here's the current state of affairs.
73, Stan, K3PW1
The raised lettering looks good Stan. I am looking forward to seeing the display lit up!1
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