Prior to the advent of SSDR for iOS, I've always run SSDR from my shack. My routine has been to connect my antenna, turn on the Astron, and fire-up the 6500.
Now that I have SSDR for iOS I want to play radio all the time, from any room in the house, whenever the mood strikes me. No problem leaving the Astron fired-up and even leaving the 6500 on. But I *really* don't want to leave my antenna connected to my station. Last night we had one heck of a storm with thunder and lightning.
How do folks normally handle this sort of setup? You folks with remote stations: Do you remotely disconnect and ground your antenna? If so, what do you use to do this?
Note that both the coax center AND coax ground are disconnected from the radio!
"Description: The Paradan Antenna Disconnect actuator protects your radio in two ways.
When your radio is on, it prevents static-discharge, surges, and lightning-
strike effects via a gas discharge tube on the coax line input. When it
senses your radio is turned off, the antenna's signal and ground wires are
shorted together and grounded plus both the coax center and coax ground
are disconnected from the radio. When the radio is powered on, the
actuator reconnects the antenna for normal operation. A great insurance
policy for your radio. The required 12 Volt power for the actuator comes
from the transceiver’s auxiliary power socket. If your radio does not have
an auxiliary power jack, then you can simply connect to your 12 VDC power
supply (presuming you turn the power supply off when not operating). "
I am sure there are less expensive solutions, but this one is ready to plug and play!
I had some of the switches mentioned and when you take a direct strike non of these things will save you.
I live in the lighting capital of the world when i leave the house the radio is physically isolated thats the only sure way.
I cant begin to tell you the amount of lost electronic components to lighting.
I run everything in the shack on 12v battery power with a couple of 140w solar panels keeping things topped off. The only gear that runs on AC mains is my 500w amplifier and it goes through an isolation transformer. This effectively disconnects my entire station from the AC power mains. Our utilities are underground which limits the likelihood of a strike entering the house via the power lines.
All of my gear in the shack is connected to a switch which also runs off of the batteries. This switch is connected to another switch via fiber then into my router to the internet. Everything is isolated including the PC.
My 2m/70cm antenna is the highest antenna I have. When I travel, I switch to a much lower antenna.
I like using ladder line. You can take a small plate of steel, drill two holes through to mount a couple spark plugs. Mount the steel plate to a ground rod and then run each leg of the ladder line across each of the spark plugs. This isn't a guaranteed way to eliminate lightning from traveling into the shack, but it certainly helps.
Nothing in my shack is grounded. I have NO ground wires running from any of my equipment to a ground rod. There should be no reason for lightning to travel past a ground rod at the base of an antenna, across the ground and into the shack. Crazier things do happen, so I won't say it is a guarantee! All grounding and lightning protection takes place at the base of each antenna, then coax or ladderline to a disconnect outside the shack.
When I am home and there is a storm approaching, I disconnect the antennas outside the shack. There are NO live antenna transmission lines entering the shack during a storm, as long as I am home and able to disconnect.
When I travel, I have a fairly inexpensive Icom IC-7100 that I leave connected here in the shack. Everything else is placed far away from the Icom while I'm traveling. I use RCFORB from Remote Hams for remote control. It works really well from my Android phone or from my laptop. I can't imagine spending that much time on the radio while I'm traveling so I don't feel the need to NEED a panadapter or waterfall. The Icom is just perfect for my needs. The Icom can also be remotely powered on and off via the app and gives my 80m-6m as well as 2m & 70cm.
During the winter, when there are far fewer storms, I often leave my amp and tuner inline with the IC-7100.
My shack is a very simple setup. I don't have a bunch of extra switches, relays, cables and powered do dads here. I primarily use my 6700 when I'm home and can really enjoy all it has to offer. I like the KISS principle.....
Last year I had a nearby strike which came down one of the security camera's ethernet cables. This took out the POE switch that the cameras were plugged into. It did not travel any further.
Even a high quality switch that grounds unused ports is not
good insurance against a lightning-induced surge. I learned that expensive lesson the hard way years
ago when my radio, autotuner, and connected PC were damaged by a surge (caused
by a nearby but not direct strike). Now I
keep antenna cables physically disconnected (and separated by several feet) outside
the house when not in use during lightning season. Also the station AC power cables!
I think when it comes to lightning surge protection, proper station grounding is far more important than the selection of a switch:
Since my station grounding is not up to that standard, I’ll keep connecting/disconnecting cables and power cords like some of the other folks who have commented ...... until lightning season is over in a couple months or so.Howard
Mine however will ground the centers of the incoming feedlines when pulled back. Like Ian says there is little that will protect you from a direct strike. I mean we are talking hundreds of thousands of volts and amps! For most of the small relay disconnecters that is like providing fuel for the fire which is exactly what I think would happen with a direct or even a very near by strike. That relay/board is just gonna melt.
Even a device like in the video is gonna suffer severe damage with a direct strike. My hope is that if I can pull the coax far enough away and ground them, that portion of the disconnector would likely become a melted slag but hopefully the radio might still survive especially if hit has a static discharge system on it.
I cannot confirm this, I could be very wrong. But I seem to feel this would be far better than any relay. Perhaps less effective than a manual disconnect and float of the radio.
I just like building things and I have at my disposal right now 6-8 mechanical engineers, a full CNC, lathe, water jet, press brake and other equipment. For a few hundred bucks, some beer and company I can get something pretty cool built.
I would like to do what you are pursuing. Tell me how do you plan to ground the centers of the connectors?
73s Kari SM0HRP
Today it is a little modified (new electric cylinder, instad of the bult and not solution from 2011)
Some pictures and building information can be found here https://sites.google.com/site/sm3jggwebcac/
73s Staffan SM3JGG