Here’s a link to PDF “How to Build a Quiet Station V2.PDF” in my Dropbox:
Here is an interesting video on the presentation at Friedrichshafen about
I do NOT recommend bonding anything to the Lightning Protection System
UNLESS it is allowed by local building codes.
As far as I know, most building codes do NOT allow you to bond anything to the lightning protection system UNLESS you are installing something above the Cone of Protection – in which case that structure becomes the lightning rod and needs to be mechanically secured to the other lightning protection systems.
BTW... there is virtually no lightning in La Jolla, CA.. last occurrence of even thunder was 20 years ago...
Short Answer.. I put a Faraday Cage around the power supply and put lots of ferrites on the power input and power output
I bought SteppIR MonstIR Serial #1 10 years ago....My buddy Dennis N6KI bought MonstIR Serial #3... we quickly discovered that there were 2 major problems with the Power System.
First - the 33V Wall Wart Brick was incredibly noisy
Second - When tuning the Motors generated Hash (Cracklies)
Dennis and I spent considerable amount of time trying to solve both problems. If you want to read about our various attempts over during 2005 and 2006, we did document our efforts extensively on the SteppIR Yahoo Group.. Search Cracklies..
To solve #1 We tried ferrites on the power input and power output... some noise reduction but since it is a plastic case there was still significant noise... the real solution was to rebuild the power brick into a Metal Box (Faraday Cage) then connect the cage to the RF Ground bus. By using BOTH Ferrites and the Faraday Cage, we were able to quiet down the 33V brick sufficiently that it was no longer a significant problem
#2 - was a much more complicated issue... the cracklies only appeared when tuning the motors... we found that part of the cause was corrosion on the tapes.. fixed by replacing tapes - but not fixed enough to let us autotune during a contest... so we built a number of different filter boxes of ever increasing complexity.. again we documented this on the SteppIR Yahoo Group...we were able to reduce the Cracklies somewhat but never nearly enough to satisfy Dennis.. But then nothing is ever good enough for Dennis....
Then I stepped back to reconsider what we were doing and came to the conclusion that I could live with the Cracklies even in a contest...
Dennis' solution was to disable Autotune during contests..no cracklies.. the antenna works well all over the bands...
My solution was to live with the 1-3 seconds of cracklies when changing frequencies as I do not use a tuner anywhere in my system so I appreciate the added perfect SWR performance of the SteppIR
Wow... Just installed 29 (of 30 purchased recently) little split beads all over my 6300 / 5000 based shack. I've only been listening for about two hours but it does seem to make a difference. I've always had a lot of 31 mix cores and split beads on power, speaker, mic and misc. other cables in and out of my Flex radios. Amazon has a nice assortment of split beads and holders at $5 for ten 5 mm and 7 mm ID sizes and $7.50 for ten 9 mm ID sizes. Placed these beads on CAT 5 cables (both ends), router power, every wall wart/monitor power supply (in and out where possible), amp keying and ALC lines, basically wherever possible.
Aside from lightning crashes and signals, 40 on the waterfall is a nice dark blue. 80 between roughly 3700 and 3850 has gone from green/orange to green/blue. Sorry, never wrote down before and after noise levels. This looks like the best $18 I've spent in a long time!
Yes they do but you must have a dropbox account
I have a copper bus in the shack and all my equipment attaches to it with 5/8" braid. The inside bus is connected to a copper bus outside with surge protectors using 1" braid for the RF and #6 stranded.
I have three 8' ground rods spaced 3' to 4' apart and all are interconnected with #6 wire. My outside copper ground bus is connected to those ground rods by two #6 wires. See pictures.
I am wondering if I would benefit from adding an additional 1" braided strap from the ground bus to a ground rod for a lower impedance path?
I wonder if there is anything that you can use to protect braid outdoors as I have about 10" exposed. Thinking some spray on chemical to saturate the braid.
Come to think about it my BigIR is connected to my DX engineering radial plate via ground strap braid.
And my #6 wires to the ground rods is only about 4 ' long each.
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